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Not all caps are made equal [but some are..]

Now, here’s a thing.

I don’t know if you have ever noticed but we sell header tanks. The difference between us and other suppliers is that our tanks don’t have caps and other suppliers do.
Just a quick post to explain why.

So, we buy header tanks, when we buy them they come with caps on, the tanks are fine, the caps are absolute junk so we take them off and bin them and here’s why…

The header tank cap is simply not there to stop coolant falling out but it is a very important part of the cooling system.
If you pressurise coolant you raise it’s boiling point, its that simple! Your cooling system is designed to run at about 1 bar or pressure [14.7psi give or take] the effect of this is that your coolant no longer boils at 100° C but at a higher temperature of about 115°c. This means your engine can run warmer and the coolant not boil, brilliant!
So, as the engine warms up the coolant does too and as it does the coolant expands. As the coolant expands the pressure in the cooling system increases. Once the cooling system reaches a predetermined level [about 1 bar of pressure] then a pressure valve in the header tank cap opens and lets the extra coolant out into the tank behind the number plate flap safe and sound to maintain a constant 1 bar pressure. The pressure valve will regulate the cooling system pressure and keep everything hunky-dorey.

Okay, you pull up outside your lust cottage in the Yorkshire Dales for the evening, turn your engine off, now what?
As the cooling system cools the coolant contracts, oh no! a pressure less than atmospheric [I’m desperately trying not to say vacuum as I can see my old motor vehicle college tutor about to shout at me for saying vacuum…it’s a depression Simon, a depression.] then the hoses would all collapse and suck up, but wait! another valve in the cap [yes, not one but 2 valves, image!] opens and now lets the cap draw back the coolant it spat out earlier into the burp tank behind the number plate.
Ace, all sorted, one valve to let excess pressure out and another valve to let coolant back in when the pressure drops.
Now, in the olden days these 2 valves were visible…
Here’s a few pictures to illustrate what I mean

cap01

A bunch of caps.
Top row – Tthe cheap nasty ones we put in the bin.
Middle row – Genuine VW items [not actually made by VW but we’ll come back to that in a moment…]
Bottom row – OEM [Original Equipment Manufacturer] basically in layman’s terms the people who made them for VW which in this case is a company called “Blau”

cap02

Again, same lay out as above, top the nasty ones [eagle eyed readers will have already spotted the problem] middle row VW, bottom row OEM “Blau”

Sorry… pic missing. Im sure we can take another as the “worthless” caps are pretty common!

Okay, to the problem, this is how we received the cap, the “vacuum” *ahem* valve is just plain missing, meaning this cap will hold zero pressure, not good! You can also see the cap behind has a wonky valve too! 2 out of 4 failure rate out of the box!

cap03

Now, the 2 caps above, can you see the black bits in the middle, that’s the important bit, that’s where the valves are, they look fairly much the same don’t they? that’s because they are!
I’ve said this loads in the past but VW maybe a vehicle manufacturer but they don’t manufacture all the parts, most stuff is bought in and this is a prime example.
Vw’s header tank caps are made by a company called Blau [part of the Magna-Steyr company, Steyr-Puch as was..] and this is their aftermarket version of the same cap, it’s made by the same company probably on the same production line by the same people with the same material using the same mechanism but outwardly it has a slightly different appearance.
So, here’s the best bit, you get basically the same part but for much less money as the part hasn’t passed though as many hands so it’s loads cheaper!

Before these blue caps were introduced the earlier version was black in colour [025 121 321 A] and these too have the unreliable valve design, 9 times out of 10 if we pressure test these black caps they fail too.
We always replace cheap caps and black caps when we spot them in the workshop.

I know I can go online now and find half a dozen companies selling these cheap caps, and the same companies selling their tanks with the cap still fitted, how are you meant to know? You buy a new cap and expect it to work, it’s only the fact that we are also a workshop and work with these vehicles daily that we pick up on such faults. You hear all these horror stories of people not being able to bleed their cooling system, well I can tell you that you have no chance of bleeding the cooling system with a cap that doesn’t hold pressure!
That’s it! ramble over.
stand down….
As you were…

Link to OEM “Blau” caps.
Nice header tank caps

Link to cheap nasty caps.
Hah, yeah right..

Check Your Radius Rod Bushes

You may have seen this before, but we lost it when we lost the old blog data… I recently found it in Googles cache, so figured it was worth reposting!

When a “new” customer brings a T3 to the workshop, the things that we can almost guarantee will need replacing are the front Radius Rod Bushes.

2 Things happen when these bushes need replacing…

The first is that the constant backwards and forwards motion of the wheel pushes the radius rod back and forth through the hole in the chassis – theres a steel sleeve around the radius rod in this area that goes through the middle of the bushes.
The sawing motion of the threaded radius rod wears away the steel sleeve. Not great, but it can be fixed cheaply and quite easily if you catch it in time. We have these sleeves manufactured in stainless steel.

The second thing that can happen is that the radius rod will cut through the sleeve, but it wont stop there… it will carry on sawing through the front cross member. At the same time wearing away the radius rod itself! The only solution then is a costly and time consuming chassis repair, followed by replacement of the Radius Rod itself…

We do have the equipment to repair this when it happens, but to be honest we’d rather its caught before it gets to this stage. The photos below are from a vehicle that was recently on the ramp. Quite a nice example of a Westfalia California…

If you have clunking and banging and generally woolly handling, theres a good chance that the radius rod bushes are to blame… check em out before they get to this stage! Your T3 will drive nicer and you’ll save yourself a big bill and some heartache in the future!

This shows the radius rod removed from the vehicle – You can see where the cross member has started to cut through the rod.

This shows the front crossmember with the outer radius rod bush removed. You can see the hole that the rod passes through is twice the size it should be. thats due to the radius rod cutting its way through the steel of the crossmember!

 

The scarey thing is that a lot of these vans have been regularly serviced, and are on most fronts well maintained. They go through MOTs and they’re driven thousands of miles…

We have all the parts to deal with this in the workshop, because we see it so often…

Radius Rod Bush Inner

Radius Rod Bush Outer

Radius Rod Bush Sleeve

Radius Rod 

Haynes Manual – T5 ’03 to ’64

Hot off the press!
Literally!

Haynes workshop manual for T5 Diesel models.
Covers:
1.9 litre (1896 cc) 4 Cylinder
2.0 litre (1968) 4 Cylinder
2.5 litre (2461 cc) 5 Cylinder

Does not cover  DSG Transmission, Twin Turbo Diesels, 4 Motion or any specialist body conversions or features specific to Caravelle or California models

5743

Webshop Link

T3 Headlamp Washers – Round and “Square” headlamps

One of those nice factory options that’s rarely seen, and is therefore quite highly sought after!
We were surprised to see these were still available… and not particularly expensive considering the price we’ve seen secondhand ones go for!

Sadly not a full kit, just the jets and housings themselves but if you’re clever you’ll be able to figure out a way of getting them working!

t3955101a

Webshop Link – Round Headlamp Washers
Webshop Link – Square Headlamp Washers

New Sticker! – T3 Turbo Diesel Airbox

Always scuffed, peeled, or blackened…

Dont let that tatty sticker ruin your engine bay!

The originals were a printed sticker with the various numbers “punched” out, depending on which application they were for.
Ours are just printed to keep the costs down. You can’t tell the difference once fitted though.

stk109607n

 

WEBSHOP LINK