Brickwerks Blog

  • Radius Rod Mount Chassis Repair Sections

    If you need one of these... you have our sympathy!

    Fitting one is quite an involved job!

    In stock if required.

    Left

    Right

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  • Rubber Mats in desirability shocker!

    Its funny how things go in circles.
    Not too long ago, everybody wanted the nice high spec carpet sets...
    Now we keep getting asked for replacement rubber mats!
    And these are as nice as they come! Genuine VW NOS.
    When these are gone we doubt there will be any more!

    So we bagged whatever were available...
    There are some other odd pieces, but these are the common ones.
    Double Cab LHD rear mat

    Caravelle Front rear mat (!)

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  • Nice easy job turns into a nightmare..

    image

    Well, not really but don't you just hate it when you start a quick simple job and it turns into a scotchlok infested can of worms.
    Job started as just making the fog lamp work on the right of the van (import) now it's turned into a rats nest detangle reterminate-athon!
    The joys of working on old vans!

  • Recent MOT pass...

    Back Plates. Rotten.
    Brake Lines. Rotten.
    Brake Flexis. Perished.
    Brake Shoes. Worn.
    Brake Drums. Worn.

    And this is many peoples only Annual inspection and some vehicles aren't even required to have it!
    *sigh

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  • Working with polyamide tube.

    Replacing fuel lines on old VWs seems to be one of those popular things to do at the moment.
    The composition of our fuel has changed and we keep hearing all those horror stories on forums about vans going up in smoke due to perished fuel lines.
    The thing is, it's usually only the end rubber sections that fail however what usually happens is that some do-gooder has gone and replaced the lot with rubber, front to rear! It's a common situation and why we have started manufacturing replacement fuel feed and return pipes to be sold as a complete item and to put the van back to how it should be.
    The hard plastic fuel lines are made from a material called "Polyamide" and are very robust, not only chemically but they also resist abrasion very well if clipped into place as they should be.
    The polyamide tube we sell is manufactured to DIN 73378.
    Polyamide tube is really easy to work with so we thought we would put a quick page together to help you understand some of the products a little better and to give a little more confidence in working with this robust, durable and cost effective fuel line.

    Oetiker clip closing pliers. A selection of Oetiker clip closing tools, all work well. Left: Genuine Oetiker closing pliers. Middle: Common or garden pincers and... Right: Professional closing pliers.

    Genuine Oetiker closing pliers. Genuine Oetiker clip closing pliers, nice and sharp and produce an attractive crimp.

    Workshop tool. The tool we use in the workshop, it has an extra heel to keep the ear of the clamp bulging too far, great for CV boot clips.

    Pre-mating.. foreplay if you must To the left, 8mm OD polyamide tube, the brass section in the middle is a reinforcing sleeve and to the right our 7.3mm FPM fuel hose.

    Sleeve meets tube Easy bit, push the reinforcing sleeve into the end of the polyamide tube all the way up, as far as it goes. The sleeve is there to stop the polyamide tube getting crushed when hose is clamped over the top.

    Rocket science The, over goes the FPM, easy huh. push the hose over the poly tube by about 15mm, about the same length as the reinforcing sleeve.

    Centring the clip Centre the clip over the reinforcing sleeve.

    Crimp. Over goes the Oetiker clip, these are stainless steel so perfect for use underneath the van.

    Hug me, squeeze me, hold me tight. The Oetiker clip is clamped up to leave a 1mm or so gap between the 2 opposing bits of the clamp.

    I can see right through you.. Here you can see there is still an air gap in the ear of the clamp. 1mm or so is what you are aiming for.

    Polyamide Here is a poor representaion of the cross section of a completed joint. Black: Polyamide tube, Grey: Fuel hose, Yellow: Reinforcing sleeve, Blue: Oetiker clip

    When it comes to sizes you need quite a tight fit, for a 8mm tail such as the output from a fuel tank you need 7,3mm fuel hose, the same goes for 8mm OD polyamide, 7,3mm ID fuel hose.

    For 6mm tails or polyamide tube you use 5.5mm ID hose.

    Polyamide tube and reinforcing sleeves can be found here

    Decent quality fuel hose can be found in this section. [look for the FPM]

    Oetiker clips can be found here. The correct sizes are in related products on the hose pages though.

    Closing tool for Oetiker and CV boots but you can use normal pincers.

    Or, if you want to buy it already done then we have a couple of kits already made.

    2.0l AC "CU" engine fuel feed kit.

    1.9l WBX "DG" Engine fuel feed kit.

    To fasten the pipes down the length of the chassis...

    Omega clip

    The change hose size.

    8mm to 6mm reducer

    12mm to 8mm reducer

    For making removable connections to the fuel tank, filters etc..

    For 5.5mm hose / 6mm tail

    For 7.3mm hose / 8mm tail

    Hopefully that should give you a little insight into this great product and help you save some money by not ditching the PA and swapping the lot for rubber!

  • T3 Turbo Diesel Breather Hose - 068103493AE

    We keep saying it, but we're so lucky in the T3 world!
    More and more that were made obsolete by VW years ago are becoming available every week.

    These breather hoses run from the "UFO" on the rocker cover down to the inlet side of the turbo. Its common to see them split or even rubbed through, which allows the turbo to draw in all that mucky air from the engine bay.

    We tired of seeing them taped up with Duct tape long ago, so paid for the tooling to allow us to produce them in Silicone (HERE). And that is what we've done until now.

    Now they're available as a Genuine VW part again from the original manufacturer.
    We'll still keep the Fluoro lined silicone versions as technically theyre a better product and should last longer, but these are in stock if you want 100% originality.

    068103493AE

    WEBSHOP LINK

  • On the First Day of Christmas, Brickwerks sent to me....

    ...Nothing.
    No Partridge in a Pear Tree will be shipped.
    No Lords, leaping or otherwise will be sent to anyone.
    No Gold Rings, or French Hens.
    And not just because we don't sell any of that guff. We're closed from midday on Christmas Eve, and we won't return to work until the 11th Day of Christmas - the 4th January.

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    We'll be shipping orders right until we close, but obviously the closer to Christmas it gets the less likely you'll be to get a Next Day delivery :)
    Anything shipped on Thursday should be delivered between the Christmas and New Year period.

    We'll be back in on the 4th January... no doubt a few pounds heavier, and a little "lethargic" but we'll ship all orders placed over the festive season on that first day back and then usual service will be resumed until we do it all again next year!

    All that remains is to say thanks to all our customers, old and new for your support.
    Its been a fantastic year!
    Enjoy the holidays, whatever you're doing, and we'll hopefully see you all again next year for more of the same...

  • T3 Electric Mirror Bodies... Now available

    No, they're not "cheap".
    They are available though... which is incredible considering the fact that they haven't been for quite a while, and battered secondhand sets have been changing hands for... lots!

    LEFT, and RIGHT.

    We wouldn't be a T3 specialist if we didn't stock them, so they're here if you need them...

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  • T3 Waterboxer Push Rod Tube covers - Original style

    We've sold the stainless steel reproductions of these for years, and still do...
    Back in the days when the originals weren't available they were a great replacement and an upgrade for the originals. They're HERE if you need those.

    VW Classic Parts recently reproduced the originals, and as more and more owners are restoring for originality, we figured we should also stock them.
    Strange that the top quality stainless steel ones have now become the "budget" option :)

    So, both sides available separately. Left and Right.

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  • Seat belt upper mount

     

    We've sold rear seatbelts for the T3 for a good many years now, initially designed for retro fitting into the rear of a Westfalia T3 models but soon people were asking if we could adapt the kit to suit panel van conversions, naturally we obliged.
    The way we got around the lack of factory mounting points was to use universal strengthening plates, it was a solution that worked but could have always been better.
    We recently broke a knackered old T3 Caravelle and as some of you know that they had factory seat belt mountings (Models 251 and 252 don't have factory seatbelt mountings, basically Panel vans where models 253 to 256 Kombi/Caravelle have factory seat belt mountings) so we chopped out the panels and the strengthening, drew them up and sent them off to the machine shop for fabricating.
    Naturally with most UK converted "campervans" starting life as basic panel vans they don't have the factory fitted seatbelt mountings these brackets should help a nice tidy seatbelt install for some customers.
    The factory design as been ever so slightly adapted to allow retro fitment without welding and retains the strength that VW built in.

    For some reason we've sold loads of seatbelts recently but we haven't been asked to fit any so when we had the opportunity to fit one for a customer the other day it seemed like a perfect opportunity to take a few pictures.

    Van was a late Auto-sleeper, obviously we needed to strip out the rear panelling first.

    Tools required.

    • Scissors [to cut out the drilling template]
    • Centre punch.
    • Drill
    • 5mm drill bit
    • 17mm drill/hole saw/cone cut.
    • Rivet gun.

    T3 Seatbelt template First start by cutting the template out, there are 2 supplied, one for the left, one for the right. Align the circles on the template with the dimpled in the bodywork.

    T3 seatbelt centrepunch. Centrepunch through the template to mark where to drill the hole for the seatbelt mounting. Yes, we know, there is no template in the picture! I centre punched it lightly and this was me going over the mark.

    Drill Using the 5mm drill, drill out the rearmost dimple, this hole will be used to rivet the plate into place.

    Drill drill drill. ....and then drill the centre popped mark.

    Punch! Instead of drilling this hole we used a sheet metal punch that bolts together, the bolt in the middle is tightened and it punches a nice clean hole out. You could use a drill bit, a hole saw or a cone cutter/step drill to do this but please be careful not to mark the panel behind!

    Prime and paint. Once the hole is punched through then prime and paint any bare metal edges.

    image Once the paint is dry it's time to slide the mounting plate into place. You'll have to take the rear pillar vent out to do this. Align the plate using the rivet and dimple in the metalwork.

    image View of the riveted plate in situ with the plastic vent removed.

    image View of seatbelt loosly fitted inside the panel.

    image All back together, trim panel fitted and the parcel shelf bracket trimmed for free movement of the belt.

    Seatbelt mounting bracket
    Seatbelt kit - Rear Left
    Seatbelt kit - Rear Right
    Seatbelt trim - T3 / T4
    Seatbelt mounting bracket - Bulkhead
    Outer mounting brackets - Left and Right

     

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